To me, big wave surfing at its core has always been about the challenge. The swells, the risks, the physical and mental demands — they’re all, well, big. Especially the wipeouts. When up to fifty feet of water is coming down on you, it’s a moment of sensory overload and how you train for it can be the difference between life and death. Even having a 1% bigger “gas tank” – whether that’s cardio bandwidth, decision making through fatigue, or improved reaction time, my ability to get out of a bad situation can come from the training I’ve put in.